“Pankaj Vir Gupta tells the story of his grandmother’s younger days in India. When monsoon season subsided and the waters of the Yamuna River receded, she would scoop up dozens of fish left flopping on the floodplain. Things were different when he was coming of age in the 1970s and 1980s in New Delhi. By then, the city was well on its way to becoming a mega metropolis of 25 million, congested and polluted. The city center shifted westward, leaving the Yamuna River on the sidelines, both physically and figuratively.”